This past Wednesday, 27 May, marked the last In Vino Veritas tasting of the year, well at least for yours truly, since there’s a tentative final tasting scheduled for June 10. Me, I’ll be on the beach with the family in North Carolina. Sorry Phil. It’s a rough life.
The featured producer was Vignobles Comtes Von Neipperg. Magali Mallet, in charge of communication and marketing for von Neipperg, hosted the tasting.
The von Neipperg family origin and nobility can be traced back to the Roman Empire. The family has contributed diplomats and soldiers to the history books throughout the centuries. And on a much more interesting note, at least for my tastes, the family has been involved in wine making since the 12th century. Whether wine or war, the family has always maintained a strong focus on and loyalty to their land.
The von Neipperg own and manage Vignobles Comtes Von Neipperg, which is comprised of 8 separate Bordeaux vineyards—Clos Marsalette in Pessac Léognan; Château Guiraud in Sauternes; La Mondotte, Château Canon La Gaffelière, Clos de l’Oratoire, and Château Peyreau in Saint-Emilion; Château d’Aiguilhe in Côte de Castillon; and last but not least, Château Soleil in Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion. Magali highlighted four of the eight vineyards for Wednesday’s tasting. They’re briefly described below.
Château d’Aiguilhe is located in the rive droite on the border between the Côtes de Castillon and Saint-Emilion appellations. There are 50 hectares of vineyards with an average age of 28 years. The plantings include 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc; and the soil composition is clay and limestone. The vineyards are south-facing with excellent drainage. According to the von Neipperg this terroir produces a wine of power and finesse, finding a perfect marriage between the roundness of the Merlot and the concentration and complexity of the Cabernet Franc. The wines tend to have good ageability; however, it can be enjoyed as early as 5 to 6 years after the vintage.
Clos de l’Oratoire is located on Saint-Emilion’s Northeast slope. The estate has 10.32 hectares of vines with an average age of 35 years. The plantings include 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil composition is divided between the upper and lower slopes. The upper slope is composed of clay, limestone and Fronsac molasses. The lower slope is clay and sandstone. A similar marriage between the Merlot and Cabernet Franc can be found, although Cabernet Sauvignon is added to the mix and overall Merlot is dominant. The result is a wine with “pronounced fruity aromas” with a “smooth, soft and seductive” texture. Again ageability is characteristic of this wine.
Château Canon La Gaffelière is located on the outer edge of Saint-Emilion at the Southern foot of the slope. 19.5 hectares of vines are planted, composed of 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The average age of the vines is 45 years and the soil composition is clay and limestone with clay and sandstone found on the lower slope. The increased proportion of Cabernet Franc is atypical of the Saint-Emilion appellation where Merlot is typically dominant with 70% of the grape constituting the typical blend. The estate’s warm soil and high clay content lend itself to a higher concentration of Cabernet Franc, since the grape, which usually ripens later, is permitted to mature more early under these micro conditions. The resulting wine has an “exquisite bouquet with spicy, floral overtones, as well as power and aromatic complexity.”
La Mondotte is located on the Eastern end of the Saint-Emilion plateau, next to Troplong-Mondot. The estate has 4.5 hectares of vines with an average age of 50 years. The plantings include 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc and the soil composition is clay and limestone. The sun exposure and steep slope provide for perfect growing conditions and early ripening. Production is low at 11,000 bottles per year; and the wines are considered to be “well-structured” with “opulence” and “finesse.”
We tasted our way through the 2004 and 2006 vintages of each of the four chateaux …
2004 Château d’Aiguilhe, Côtes de Castillon
Blend: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (60% new oak), 13.5% ABV
Tasting Notes: Dark violet in the glass. Aromas of black fruits, mineral, acid, oak, and very subtle cinnamon. Medium-bodied with supple tannins and a balanced and fruity acidity. Light oak flavors and not much complexity.
Rating: 13/20
2006 Château d’Aiguilhe, Côtes de Castillon
Blend: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (55% new oak), 13.5% ABV
Tasting Notes: Dark violet in the glass. More complexity on this sweet and rich nose. There are floral and cedar aromas. Strong tannins and full-bodied. Fruit forward and more acidic with flavors of cherry, black fruit, and dark chocolate. Still too young but should age well.
Rating: 14/20
2004 Clos de l’Oratoire, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Blend: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (80% new oak), 13.5% ABV
Tasting Notes: Ruby violet in the glass. A rich nose with minerality, plum, spice, and oak. More oak on the palate, as well as black berries. This wine has medium tannins and a medium body, in fact medium everything. Not a bad wine, but a little flabby and not too interesting.
Rating: 13/20
2006 Clos de l’Oratoire, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Blend: 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (70% new oak), 13.5% ABV
Tasting Notes: Dark violet in the glass. Red cherries and good fruity acidity on the nose. Very tannic but possessing great balance and good acidity. There are flavors of plums and black berries. This wine will age well. Drink through 2024.
Rating: 15/20
2004 Château Canon La Gaffelière, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Blend: 50 % Merlot, 45 % Cabernet Franc, 5 % Cabernet Sauvignon
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (80% new oak), 13.5% ABV
Tasting Notes: Ruby violet in the glass. A refreshing nose of spearmint, spice, minerality and plums. Full-bodied, acidic and tannic in the mouth with marked astringency, however, not discomforting. There are flavors of black cherry and prune.
Rating: 15/20
2006 Château Canon La Gaffelière, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Blend: 55 % Merlot, 35 % Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (80% new oak), 14% ABV
Tasting Notes: Dark violet in the glass. A more complex nose with rich aromas of brambleberry and cedar. This wine is full-bodied, tannic and a little bitter in the mouth with flavors of blackberries.
Rating: 15/20
2004 La Mondotte, Saint-Émilion
Blend: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (100% new oak), 14% ABV
Tasting Notes: Ruby violet in the glass. Aromas of plum, cherry, pepper and beef jerky. Fruitiness in the mouth with good balance between the acidity and tannins, however underdeveloped and lacking expression.
Rating: 13/20
2006 La Mondotte, Saint-Émilion
Blend: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Aged 18 months in oak (100% new oak), 14% ABV
Tasting Notes: Dark violet in the glass. Good minerality and black fruits on the nose. Full-bodied and balanced in the mouth with pronounced tannins and a rich and velvety texture. Fruit forward all the way through the palate, including light oak. Plums linger on the finish.
Rating: 14/20
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